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Country Info
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Kakamega
On leaving Kisumu we travel further west from Nyanza province to
Western province through various towns whose roads are traversed
more by livestock than vehicles.
It takes about 1 hour 15 minutes to get to Kakamega, which is
about 50 kms north of Kisumu. Before we reach the hotel we stop over
to view the famous weeping stone in Maragoli, an
eight-metre high rock upon which a smaller rock is balanced. From
the base of the smaller rock a continuous trickle of water emerges
regardless of the season, giving rise to varied legends with no
definite explanation given for this phenomenon.
Golf Hotel
Our chosen residence in Kakamega is the Golf Hotel, situated
400km west of Nairobi. This town hotel offers a relaxing atmosphere,
with lawns that are dotted with bandas where one can enjoy an
outdoor meal, and on the other side of the fence is a golfcourse run
by the neighbouring Kakamega Golf Club. The Golf Hotel organizes
golf for any of its guests who may be interested in a round.
The facilities are simple - large rooms with basic furniture, a
dining room devoid of much decor giving it a typical government
office mood, and outdoor bandas suitable for nyama na
kuku choma.
Kakamega forest
About 15 minutes drive from the hotel is the Kakamega forest, an
internationally renowned sanctuary for birds, butterflies and
primates. Viewing of these isn't easy though, due to the dense
nature of the forest, so it's advisable to have a guide along.
Guides are recommended and are available for hire at the gate. It
is also run by KWS so you're assured of eloquency and knowledge.
Apparently not all species of plants and animals within the
forest have been identified, hence the presence of groups of curious
researchers eager to make new discoveries. Unique trees present
here, most of which are endangered, include the Elgon teak, the
queen fig tree- enormous and hundreds of years old, it towers above
our heads. Most of these trees have useful barks and wood, which, if
people were given a chance to exploit them, they would surely become
extinct. A lot were used to make traditional medicines hence their
names are given in both the traditional language and the scientific.
Buttress roots lie above ground level because the ground is
soaked with moisture, so all the water they need they can absorb
from the top spoil together with nutrients.
A snake-like vine growing around some trees is called a liana.
Lianas are climbers, supporting themselves on other trees.
Apparently this is most likely the plant that Tarzan uses to swing
himself around forests!
Our walk is accompanied by the cries of colobus and blue monkeys
up in the trees. The forest has birds numbering upto 350 species as
well as over 380 species of plants, making it an ideal retreat for
botanists.
Wear closed, rubber-soled shoes for the hike, because you may
suddenly come across a line of dreaded safari ants!
School trips are common here, either one-day trips or overnight
stays in the double-bed bandas. One of the bandas has 4 beds and is
ideal for families. Beds and washrooms are provided, plus a kitchen
where you can choose to cook using firewood or your own gas cooker.
You can also pitch your tents within the compound as many
researchers have done.
Our climb takes us upland- its quite a trek so if you're unfit
prepare to exercise! Atop the slope is a viewpoint that offers an
expansive view of the forest canopy below. The open patches visible
are called glades, which are naturally occurring sections of
grassland. And across the forest stretches the Nandi escarpment,
which separates the Rift Valley and Western provinces. It's a
breathtaking sight full of the freshest, coolest air ever!
Hotel Entertainment
That evening back at the hotel we are entertained by Luhya Sukuti
dancers, some who have obviously had a bit too much of the illicit
brew as we get unwelcome whiffs. Nevertheless the dance is
invigorating to watch before retiring to bed.
Bullfighting
After a good night's rest we get a very early start to the next
day for the major social activity in Western province- bullfighting!
The villagers begin celebrating at their individual homesteads
before sunrise, hence the early start, but the main action begins at
daylight. Bulls are brought from different clans to a central spot
that varies from week to week. This week it is at Ilala.
Every Saturday, an enthusiastic crowd chants in the heat and dust
as bulls are ceremoniously brought from their paddocks onto a pitch
to meet the best of the best in a match that will bring honour and
glory to their owners.
And why would they engage in such games? Well for one, it dates
back ages traditionally. And secondly, there is money up for grabs,
not to mention prestige. For instance, Apanda- a black and white
bull who is the main attraction- has won 2 fights so far with only
one left to win and is thus well known by everyone here.
At first I was startled by the drooling and heaving sounds made
by the bulls, but the explanation for this was quickly given.
Apparently, the night before they are made to inhale intoxicating
smoke and drink alcohol, such that the following morning their
bodies are trying to force it out of their systems, making them
extremely irritable and aggressive, constantly spoiling for a fight.
But be careful, because the crowd is equally charged up and there's
the danger of being trampled if you get too close to the fight. But
this only serves to add to the adrenaline rush, which I must say
stayed with me all day, regardless of how early I had woken up. It's
just one of those activities that you need to experience up close to
understand why people do it!
All this information is given to me by a rather young boy called
Kwame who takes it upon himself to take me around. "The bulls," he
continues, "are trained from a very early age to be aggressive; the
herders dare them using their sticks to fight other calves at
watering points. They therefore attack each other so as to prove
they are up to the challenge. That is also why the only discipline a
bull understands in this state is a stick tapped against its nose,
which is why even members of the crowd carry these rods."
We get a close call when bull rams into the wall feet from where
we stand- I think that's enough excitement for this particular
activity.
And this doesn't just occur in Kenya; it may be traced to the
bull chases in Pamplona Spain which are also a very favoured past
time frequented by tourists.
Once the fight is over, the winner is led out like royalty
flanked by his die-hard fans who know that a great feast awaits them
back home. Seriously injured bulls are slaughtered, and though we
won't be able to wait to partake of the great feast what a way to
start the day!
Rondo Retreat
Let's now take a look at another good place to stay in Kakamega.
We drive to Rondo Retreat, 18 kilometres from Kakamega town. A
little tea farming is carried out in this fertile area. The Retreat
itself is set within the Kakamega forest such that there's no noise
and plenty of nature to fill your senses. Cosy cottages can
accommodate between 4 and 8 people in each.
The name Rondo comes form Kavirondo, the corner of Western Kenya
around Lake Victoria, formerly called the Kavirondo gulf. In modern
terms Rondo means ‘All Round', which has thus been taken to
mean a place of wholeness for body, soul and spirit. It was
initially the home that a sawmiller, Mr. Bob Turton, built for his
wife around a huge Elgon Olive or Teak tree- the biggest tree in the
forest. Eventually a magnificent garden took shape amongst the
cathedral of trees. After an accident he donated Rondo to the
National Christian Council of Kenya (NCCK) for use as a Youth
Centre. It was later used as an orphanage, then taken over by
Trinity Fellowship at the time when the film ‘The Kitchen Toto' was
being filmed here. Thus it became a retreat centre that is
constantly re-visited for its enchanting décor and location. Aside
from providing a haven for peace and rest, its purpose is also to
generate funds that assist Kenya 's poorest youth in their pursuit
of education and more.
Accommodation rates
and images
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The Western circuit:-
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