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Kabarnet

The journey

A road leads north along the Nakuru-Baringo road, branching off left onto the Eldama Ravine road. A myriad number of hills are seen as we enter the depths of the Rift valley province. The road is tarmac the entire way, with a few rough patches but nothing that a saloon car can't handle. Not much private traffic is seen, which is evidence that not many tourists visit this region. Public transport plies the route, and there are petrol stations along the way in case you need to fuel up.

1 hour from Nakuru is Kabarnet, which is the head of Baringo District and is set among the Tugen Hills on the western edge of the Rift Valley. It sits at the beginning of a winding road that climbs up the hills at the edge of the Kerio Valley. Greenery flanks us on both sides, and it is within this landscape that the local community has taken the initiative to begin the Kerio-Tingwa ecotourism project, situated within the mid-rift tourism circuit. The view displays just how much richer a land is with its natural forest cover, a good argument against deforestation that is now rampant countrywide.

Resting areas and a kiosk have been set up, though you may also carry your own snacks. This viewpoint was opened in June 2005 right next to the road so that all passers-by have a chance to disembark and enjoy its vantage location. Kiptoo my guide then takes me further up the road to a sister project run by the same group that leads you to caves and waterfalls down the steep slopes. Camping space is also available.

A platform has been constructed from where to get a clearer view. There are two hills - Tingwa and Mugomet. Within the valley are Fluorspar mines appearing as brown spots, while near them is Kowochi primary school, which was named after this area Kowochi that means ‘place of bones'. It derived this description from the violent intertribal warfare that occurred here years ago, leading to the discovery of hundreds of skeletons. So it's not just about the beauty of nature here, but also a good deal of history, if you get the right guide to tell you about it.

Kabarnet Museum

The road meanders upland to Kabarnet. This is a very scenic route, with views of Lake Baringo and the Kerio Valley.

Kabarnet is the district headquarters of Baringo District on the western edge of the Rift Valley and is home to one of the newest of the regional museums.

Established in 1996 in the former District Commissioner's residence, this new museum has four main public galleries which feature exhibits on traditional head dresses, the material culture of the local peoples, evolution of man, toys and science for education. The main cultures featured include those of the Keiyo / Marakwet, Samburu, Pokot, Nandi and Kipsigis. In addition an overview of the history of the district, from pre-colonial, colonial and post-independence era are on display.

The Moi gallery has a fascinating display that compares Nairobi 100 years ago to Nairobi today, showing places like the railway station, Moi Avenue, State House which was formerly known as Government house, museum hill formerly known as Ainsworth Bridge, among other sites.

In the large surrounding garden are located many old trees, plants and shrubs whose scientific, vernacular and common names are clearly indicated. And then there are the snakes- from forest cobras to the black mamba, puff adder, viper, a moulting spitting cobra and the boomslang with its moulted skin hanging on a nearby branch. Other animals present include tortoises and a baboon.

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