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The Central Highlands
Nyeri
Chilly, cold.... that's the opinion many people
have of the central highlands that cover Mount Kenya and the
Aberdares. And they aren't too far from the truth because it does
get quite cold there, though fortunately the landscape justifies
this as it is beautiful, green and rich in flora and especially
fauna. This was a trip that I therefore not only enjoyed for its
beauty but also for the lessons learnt in just how significant this
stretch of forest and moorland is to all Kenyans.
Getting to Nyeri
The road from Nairobi is all tarmac except for a
small stretch that is currently under repair around Kia Ngwachi
before Nyeri. Public transport is adequate, all the way from
Nairobi, past the pineapple shambas in Thika, on past Sagana and
onto Karatina. Less than an hour's drive from here is Nyeri, the
provincial headquarters of Kenya's central province.
Outspan hotel
On a Sunday there are no large crowds milling the
streets but still a sizeable number of people going about their
routines. And just 1.2. kilometres from the town centre is the
Outspan hotel, easily accessible by taxi from the town centre. We
arrived just in time for a delicious buffet lunch- a mix of
traditional and exotic dishes whose flavours and variety left me in
no doubt that this is one of the best hotel I have eaten in in all
my trips. Enjoy your meal either indoors or out on the well tended
lawn. If you're lucky you'll get to see the resident peacock
strutting his stuff proudly, maybe even fanning out his long tail to
reveal the famed peacock eyes. Whoever invented the phrase 'as proud
as a peacock' knew exactly what he was talking about, and this
peacock certainly knows it too, basking in all the attention he gets
from guests.
 Outspan's resident peacock
The air is fresh, though chilly, during the cold
season mid-year you may never get to see Mt. Kenya's peaks unless
very early in the morning.
Activities
Take a break in the afternoon before setting off
for a bird and river walk later in the early evening. This comes at
an extra cost, and begins with a walk around the hotel's grounds.
The resident naturalist identifies the birds that reside here such
as the Scoops owl, as well as various plants and trees, some which
are indigenous while others were introduced during the colonial
days. Leave the grounds through a gate that leads through a forest
to the river. The ground is littered with bright red petals from the
Nandi Flame tree. Shrubs and wild flowers abound here, including the
honeysuckle that I remember sucking the nectar out of in my
childhood. Remember to wear closed walking shoes especially during
the rainy season.
One of the highlights of this walk is an age-old
Mugumo tree that is very central to the Kikuyu culture and
tradition, which they regard as sacred. Under this tree the
community would pray and offer sacrifices to 'Ngai' the God of the
Kikuyu while facing Mount Kirinyaga, now known as Mt Kenya, for it
is there that they believed God resided. The tree we pass is
currently being choked by a strangler fig, a parasitic type of plant
that climbs up other trees preying on their nutrients and water. So
far, however, the 500-year old Mugumo tree has not succumbed and
remains standing tall and majestic for visitors to behold.
The shores of the Chania
river are covered in shambas of food crops like maize, pumpkins and
bananas. There is a village across the river that gives an idea of
how the local community live, so for those interested in local
lifestyles listen attentively as the naturalist explains. The rivers
waters weaving past black rocks jutting from the river bed, but its
main attraction is a waterfall gorge, where the waters gush
downwards in a thundering sound that invades the senses; a nice
setting to just sit and spend an afternoon meditating.
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Did you
know.......
- The word ‘Outspan' is derived from the process of
removing the oxen from the carts of white explorers and
traders decades ago. They would rest here after their trek.
- Built in 1927, it offers a view of Mount Kenya
- Activities include a visit to nearby Kikuyu village to
explore the huts and have your fortune told
- Conference rooms are available
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Once we have had our fill of nature we head back to
the hotel in time for dinner.
Entertainment
Themed nights are popular in hotels now, and this
night it is ‘African barbecue night', complimented by Kikuyu
traditional dances centred around a boy's circumcision ceremony. The
parents roles are re-enacted so that the guests understand it
better. To our amusement a guest was picked who would supposedly
share in the boy's initiation to manhood(!). Before each dance
begins a narrator explains the stages, thereby making it all the
more interesting. The famous Chuka drummers from the Meru community,
neighbours to the Kikuyu, also display their mastery in drum
beating. This entertainment may also be enjoyed every afternoon at a
nearby Kikuyu village. The trend in the Kenyan tourist scene now is
that whichever region of the country you visit you are bound to be
entertained by the resident tribe. And so ends our first day in the
central highlands.
Accommodation
The Outspan hotel's motto is ‘Seriously Indulgent'.
Indulge yourself in its comfortable rooms that come in two distinct
styles- there are the Chania rooms that are resplendent in a mix of
authentic wooden and old-style furniture bathed in soft lighting for
that ultimate relaxation. Wooden floors and carpets ensure that your
feet remain warm in the chill of the day or night, in addition to a
fireplace. Each room's furnishings are uniquely blended to match
with even the walls. The standard rooms are very spacious and airy
with a colonial feel that is favoured by foreigners.
The family cottages are literally like a home, with
a sitting room, master bedroom complete with baby cot, as well as a
children's room for two. Television sets are provided in all rooms
just in case you want to keep in touch with the outside world.
Otherwise- indulge yourself.
Another significant landmark within the grounds is
a cottage where Lord Robert Baden Powell, the founder of the world's
scout's movement, spent the last three years of his life. This has
been transformed into a museum called Paxtu. His wife Olave is also
credited with founding the girl guides movement. Their rooms and
memorabilia are preserved for scouts and guides from all over the
world to visit. Over time scarves and personal mementos have flooded
this cottage as a sign of respect to this couple that begun such a
well respected movement. When you are done viewing the museum, take
some time to sign the visitor's book.
As the day ends we head to the in-house Kirinyaga
bar whose prices are friendlier than the main hotel's. This is where
we catch up on news courtesy of the bar TV and also meet lots of
people who find Nyeri to be a great weekend getaway, fresh air and
all...
Accommodation rates and
images
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